Dan's El Cap NIAD misogi

“Pick a goal and do it”.

I heard Hans say this while sitting on my parents couch in 2010. I was watching Masters of Stone VI which culminates with Hans’ and Yuji’s new Nose Speed Record.

I’d only started climbing a few months prior and my imagination of what was possible was radically expanded in that moment. After watching Hans climb The Nose and learning more about his background it was clear - that’s what I wanted to do.

As fate would have it, Hans was the Manager at Diablo Rock where I ended up coaching while I continued to ‘figure out life’.

At that time - I was shy and honestly intimidated by Hans. Not because he was not kind (if anything - the total opposite - he’s one of the most welcoming people I’ve met). It was my own insecurities that kept me distant. I was a new rock climber and felt like I was barely on the JV team while Hans was the MVP of the professionals.

Regardless of my timidness - Hans and I shared a quiet and mutual respect for ‘doing hard things’ and have remained in touch over the years.

I felt especially honored when Hans started sending me his holiday card and even more so when I received the 2023 card with an invite to Yosemite to climb The Nose In A Day as a part of Hans’ 60th birthday challenge. 

For the past 4-5 years climbing has slipped away from me - I just didn’t have the same psych (or time) I’d had in the past.

But as soon as Hans and I talked and set the date for the NIAD - my mindset completely changed.

The psych was back and more intense than ever.

I remember as a younger man having conversations with people a decade or two older than me that ‘used to do that’ - meaning they used to follow their passions with more intensity.

Having now been there myself I completely empathize that ‘life happens’ and you do not always get to do what you want to do - regardless of how passionate you may be.

However, I just heard Hans on a podcast where he mentioned that most of the feats he’s most recognized for happened after he had a family and a ‘regular job’. 

This is the story that I find the most inspiring.

Climbing The Nose with Hans was a vivid display of the Mastery I’d envisioned, but had never actually witnessed until now.

Belaying has even taken on a new dimension. The rate at which I feed out rope climbing with Hans is the fastest I’d ever seen rope fly through a GriGri.

As I watched Hans lead a pitch or coach me through a lower out I knew I was experiencing the type of Mastery I aspire to attain. 

It was like a new student meeting with the enlightened Zen master. 

I greatly admire how Hans has created a life where he is the hero of his own story. I remember reading years back that Hans’ favorite book was Atlas Shrugged and having finally read the book (twice) I now both understand and share his mindset.

I’ve heard it said that you shouldn’t meet your heroes, but I disagree. 

I consider Hans both a hero of mine - and a friend. Getting the opportunity to climb The Nose with Hans was a dream come true that started 14 years ago on my parents couch.

What I’m most grateful for in regards to climbing with Hans (as well as simply knowing him) is how he has expanded my imagination of what is possible on the rock - and in life.

Thank you for the inspiration, friendship, and glimpse into what might be possible.

Long live the #DHT mindset!

-Dan Vinson

NIAD 5/31/2024
Time: 14:24